Installing Drywall – Your Basement Finishing Project

Hanging Drywall

Good work! You have framed the area you are finishing. The walls and ceiling have been packed with soundproofing, fire retardant, insulation, or some combination thereof. Electrical outlets, overhead lighting, surround sound speakers, etc., have been installed. Now, you are ready to hang the drywall. Hanging and finishing drywall is the topic of this post. As with earlier posts, I refer you to videos on YouTube to help you understand the basics of hanging and finishing drywall. This post will present thoughts and considerations you may not find in those videos. Probably the most important point to consider is that the fewer joints to mud and tape the better.

Key Discussion Points

    • Plan out your cuts (fewest joints to tape)
    • Which size sheets can you accommodate?
    • Finishing corners
    • Taping
    • Hanging sheets, vertical vs horizontal
    • Fixing damaged sheets (torn paper)
    • Benefits of Expansion Foam

Your first task is to determine the optimal drywall sheet size to purchase. Our basement is a walk-out with three access points and relatively high ceilings. If you have a captured basement with lower ceilings or tight stairwells you may be restricted on the sheet size you can use. Otherwise, you may have to cut your sheets before moving them into the basement. So, ceiling height and accessibility must be evaluated before a buying decision is made. Try to purchase the largest sheet size possible to minimize cuts, The determining factor will be the type of basement you are finishing.

When my husband was ready to install drywall, he was confident he could hang and finish the walls. He was uncomfortable with the ceilings, so he hired professionals to tackle that task. In effect, he did that job backward, walls first then ceiling. The recommended installation process is ceilings first. The outcome was fine. No problems were encountered following this sequence. As most of the construction area has nine-foot ceilings we used nine-foot sheets hung vertically. The remainder of the area had eight-foot ceilings so we could place 8-foot sheets horizontally.

Corners can be tricky. External corner joints can be managed using corner beads, but they can be challenging, depending on the connection. Internal corners may have gaps that need to be corrected. If Internal corner gaps are large, expansion foam can be the solution. The foam will fill the gap and provide a base to add the joint compound. My husband had to deal with both situations. For an amateur, he did well. However, he plans additional work on one external corner.

Exposing electrical outlets is your next task. From my experience, one achieves the best result by using a drywall router tool. This tool rides along the exterior of the outlet box as it cuts away the drywall. If you don’t have a drywall router tool, you can measure and mark the outlet box location on the drywall. You can cut before or after the drywall is hung. Of course, this method requires meticulous measurements to ensure the cut matches the outlet’s location. My husband found this method more challenging. It required additional time and effort to correct errors in the cut.

Many YouTube videos describe how to mud, tape, and finish your drywall. Again, I refer to those videos for a better understanding of this task. I want to emphasize our learning to ensure a smooth, attractive joint. The first consideration is the joint compound to use. My husband used a premix joint compound for our basement finishing project. If you ask him today, however, he will say he wished he had purchased a dry product to mix himself. His thinking is that the premix resulted in too much sanding and was more difficult to achieve a smooth finish. The other point he makes is to wet the tape before its application to the joint. Many videos he watched did not emphasize this point, possibly because they used a wetter mix. He quickly learned that wetting the drywall tape was mandatory when using the premix joint compound. Not doing so resulted in bubbles and separation of the tape from the drywall.

Summary and Conclusion

Begin your drywall installation with a plan. Know the square footage you intend to cover and your options for different sheet sizes. Determine if you have any constraints moving drywall sheets into your work area. That information may determine the size of the drywall sheet you must buy. Remember, you want to minimize the number of joints to finish. The joint compound you choose is an important consideration. Finishing internal and external corners can be improved using corner beads and expansion foam. Making the cutouts for electrical outlets is best done with a drywall router. That tool will give you a clean and accurate cut, and minimize any further work on outlets.

Jill Weber, Owner and President of Kitchen Connections, LLC

For more information about Kitchen Connections, LLC and what we can do for you, visit http://kitchenconnections.biz

770-650-0632

 

Thank you for visiting our blog.

 

Jim Weber – Managing Partner,  ITB Partners;

President, New Century Dynamics Executive Search

I hope you enjoyed our perspective and would like to receive regular posts directly in your email inbox. To this end, please put your contact information on my mailing list.

Your feedback helps me continue to publish articles that you want to read.  Your input is important to me, so please leave a comment.

Installing Drywall – Your Basement Finishing Project

Good work!  You have framed the area you are finishing. The walls and ceiling have been packed with soundproofing, fire retardant, insulation, or some combination thereof. Electrical outlets, overhead lighting, surround sound speakers, etc., have been installed. Now, you are ready to hang the drywall. Hanging and finishing drywall is the topic of this post.

https://wp.me/pa0WEz-33B

Your Basement Electrical Plan

Great Room looking out toward the terrace

Our last post was about understanding the plumbing needs of your basement, especially drainage.  The plumbing plan for your project is essential.  However, a comprehensive electrical wiring plan may be more critical.  This post focuses on understanding the requirements and options for electrical components.  You should complete an electrical plan before you begin finishing your basement.    The first step to developing your electrical wiring plan is to secure the Residential Electric Code from your municipality’s building department.  Consider the additional load from appliances and electrical components that facilitate your lifestyle.  The added electrical load will likely require the addition of a sub-panel to service your basement.   Most existing homes need sub-panels for expansion.    You may benefit by consulting with an electrical contractor.

When we built our Atlanta-area home 28 years ago, we made a point to add as many electrical upgrades as possible.  We wired for telephone service with outlets in every room.  Additionally,  we wired cable service for twelve rooms, which included all bedrooms, two Family Rooms, the Master Bath, the Kitchen, the Bonus Room, and the Basement.  In retrospect, I wish we had wired the house with Ethernet cables for enhanced PC connectivity.  WiFi is OK, but we would have enjoyed the benefit of direct wired connections for computers and audio-visual components.  There are many more options today, from high-tech safety and security features to audio-visual, lighting, and smart technology.

Electrical Plan:  Things to Consider

    1. HVAC
    2. Outlets and fixtures
    3. Smart Tech
    4. Audio Visual
    5. Switches
    6. Lighting
    7. Safety & Security

The layout of your basement, captured vs walkout, will determine your heating and cooling needs.  Our basement remains relatively comfortable throughout the year, requiring minimal additional heating and cooling capacity.  For that reason, we decided on a mini-split system.  Your needs may differ based on the square footage you want to finish.  One could also install an in-floor heating system in a part of the basement.  Nevertheless, you will need to factor this electrical demand into your planning.

Refer to your municipality’s building codes for guidance on the minimum number of outlets required and the placement of smoke detectors.  The standard for placing outlets is usually no more than 12 feet apart in living areas and 6 feet apart in kitchens and bathrooms.   Your building codes also cover halls, doorways, and other areas. If you want to add wall-mounted televisions, plan for additional outlets where you want to hang the television(s).  These outlets will facilitate the concealment of electrical cords and other wires.  You may want to add additional outlets to accommodate Smart Technology solutions, including USB Enabled Outlets, Touchless Taps, or Concealed Outlets.

Much of our Smart Technology is WiFi-compatible.  It is convenient and provides a lot of flexibility.  WiFi connectivity can become overloaded, requiring booster systems or added routers.  I expect that, eventually, we will need to add another modem and router to accommodate the increased demand.

A primary objective for finishing our basement was to make a desirable retreat for our teenage Grandchildren.  That means accommodating electronic gaming systems, HD Televisions, and a great sound system.  We planned accordingly.  We installed two wall-mounted televisions with all cables and plugs hidden in the walls or behind the televisions.  We installed ceiling-mounted speakers connected to a state-of-the-art stereo receiver.  The audio-visual installation has been tested by the grandkids and given a big “thumbs up.”

We extensively used LED flush-mounted lighting throughout the finished area. We wired for ceiling fans in the Great Room and on the Patio. We added a wall-mounted, two-light fixture over the bathroom vanity. We wired the kitchenette for full functionality, including task lighting. The remainder of our lighting plan relies on table and floor-mounted lamps. Your plan might also consider under-counter/skirt board/task lighting, closet/cupboard lighting, and motion-sensitive lighting.

Switches and outlets are another essential consideration. There are many options for size, style, and functionality. We used dimmer switches to control all of the lights. Our electrical contractor added GFCI outlets in the bathroom and kitchenette. A third GFCI outlet was part of the original construction. GFCI outlets are an essential safety consideration covered by your Building Codes.

Summary and Conclusion

When developing your electrical wiring plan, begin by understanding the building codes.  You may want to engage an Electrical Contractor to help with this task.  As you start your work on your electrical plan, think about how you will use the space now and in the future.  The significant issues to address are Safety and security, HVAC, and lighting.  Aesthetic features like audio-visual, Connectivity, and Smart Technology offer many opportunities for your consideration.

JIll Weber, Owner and President of Kitchen Connections, LLC

For more information about Kitchen Connections, LLC and what we can do for you, visit http://kitchenconnections.biz

770-650-0632

 

Thank you for visiting our blog.

 

Jim Weber, Managing Partner – ITB Partners

Jim Weber – Managing Partner,  ITB Partners

I hope you enjoyed our perspective and would like to receive regular posts directly in your email inbox. To this end, please put your contact information on my mailing list.

Your feedback helps me continue to publish articles that you want to read.  Your input is very important to me, so please leave a comment.

Plumbing Your Basement Project

This article is the third installment by Kitchen Connections, evaluating the considerations for finishing your basement.

Basement Bathroom

It is reasonable to assume that adding a bathroom is a high priority if you plan to finish your basement. After all, when nature calls, you do not want to go upstairs to find a bathroom. Additionally, you can add a bar, a kitchen, a laundry room, or all three. Addressing the plumbing issues required by your basement finishing plan may be your first significant activity. If you built your house in the last twenty years, your builder may have roughed the drainage pipe for future development. Paper or rags may have been stuffed into this pipe opening to minimize gas and unpleasant odors emanating from the roughed-in drain pipe. Additional drainage needs will likely connect to that pipe. Addressing drainage and water supply is an important place to begin your work.

Our basement project created a 750-square-foot, one-bedroom, walk-out apartment. It includes a full bathroom, a laundry room, a great room, and a kitchenette. This space is not just for guests but also for our children and grandchildren or even as a rental. The plumbing for both the kitchenette and the laundry room was simple, allowing us to focus on the exciting aspects of personalizing our new space.

If you plan to add a shower or a bath, you may still need to cut the concrete of your basement foundation. We had to break concrete to connect the future shower drainpipe to the roughed-in connection to the main drain. With that task completed, we connected the vanity sink to the shower drain. Typically, drainpipes for a basement vanity, shower or bathtub, and toilet are not installed during the construction of a new house. The typical rough-in for a basement bathroom is limited to the drainpipe for the toilet. There is only a need to incur this cost on a new home if finishing the basement is a certainty. Drainage for the vanity and shower must be added. Expect to cut and bust some concrete to build your basement bathroom.

After completing our basement bathroom, we found water drained slowly and backed up in the shower. We had to clear a blockage. Our plumber cleared the paper from the drain, which resolved the issue. We have yet to experience further drainage issues.

It is essential to ensure pre-plumbed drainage pipes are connected to the main drain without obstructions. I remember a YouTube video I recently viewed. In this video, a New Jersey couple was filmed with their contractor while planning to finish their basement. The house was new, and the builder had planned for a basement bathroom. At least it looked like he had done so, as a PVC pipe rose from the foundation. Upon further inspection, the contractor discovered that the pipe was only stuck in the foundation and not connected to the main drain. I had to laugh. It seems appropriate for New Jersey. Did the building inspector miss this violation, or was it something else? The homeowners were not happy. It required them to cut into the foundation to build a trench and lay pipes to connect to the main drain. I wonder if the homeowners factored this cost into their budget. Finding and connecting to the main drain is the priority. One must budget for this cost.

Another consideration is to use copper pipes, the Pex System, or maybe PVC for the water lines. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Copper is reliable but expensive. Pex and PVC are less costly and easy to install but may only be suitable for some locations. There is a lot of information on the internet to help you decide which of these options is the best for your project. Our situation was ideal for installing a Pex System. You will want to research this issue to determine the best solution.

CONCLUSION:
The plumbing required for finishing your basement is a significant consideration. It is a large component of the cost for most basement remodel projects. If you plan to do some or all the work yourself, you can save a lot of money. However, it will require a significant investment in your time. If you are required to have a building permit, the situation will become more complicated. There are several options to consider regarding connecting to the water supply. Each has benefits and disadvantages, so choose the most suitable option.

JIll Weber, Owner and President of Kitchen Connections, LLC

For more information about Kitchen Connections, LLC and what we can do for you, visit http://kitchenconnections.biz

770-650-0632

Thank you for visiting our blog.

 

Jim Weber, Managing Partner – ITB Partners

Jim Weber – Managing Partner,  ITB Partners

I hope you enjoyed our perspective and would like to receive regular posts directly in your email inbox. To this end, please put your contact information on my mailing list.

Your feedback helps me continue to publish articles that you want to read.  Your input is very important to me, so please leave a comment.

Validate Your Basement Finishing Project

“When do you plan to retire fully,” I asked Stan, my semi-retired friend.  Stan had just called to check-in.  He was on the road, driving from a client meeting to his home office.  “Soon, I hope!  I have things I want to do,” he said.  Naturally, I asked him to tell me more.

View from Basement Great Room toward Stairway and Kitchenette
View from the Basement Great Room toward the Stairway and Kitchenette

Stan said that he had a 300-square-foot space in the basement that he would like to turn into a Cigar lounge.  That piqued my interest.  He said he wanted a place to enjoy a cigar and a whiskey while listening to his favorite music.  Much of his basement is finished and dedicated to his wife’s arts and crafts.  It is a walkout basement with plenty of natural lighting and easy backyard access.  As described, his idea seemed perfectly reasonable to me.  Three hundred square feet is plenty of room for a manly retreat.  It would easily accommodate his adult sons, friends, and brother-in-law.

We are Cigar aficionados.   We often enjoyed fine cigars and Bourbon together.  That was before he moved back to the Chattanooga area.  Now, during pleasant weather, Stan smokes on his deck.  I am curious to know how he manages during foul weather.  A Cigar lounge would become a trendy addition to his home.  It would be handy during the college football season.  I told Stan that I liked his plan.

This project is relatively simple.  He said that a demising wall is needed.  He also mentioned that the distance to the first-floor joists is relatively high, so he plans to install a drop ceiling.  Otherwise, it’s just basic wiring for electrical and then putting down a floor.  It is not a big project.  We did not discuss an elaborate Bar setup or Cigar Humidor, so I assume a mini refrigerator would satisfy his immediate needs.  We discussed HVAC only as it regards a smoke evacuation system.  However, Stan did not think that would be necessary.  There is a need for at least one register and a return air vent.  He is not interested in doing the work so he will hire a contractor.  He asked if I thought $10,000 would cover the cost.  I told him that was doable.  Stan can easily afford the cost of finishing this space.

Stan’s Cigar Lounge is less complicated than it would be for most.  Finishing this space is entirely discretionary, solely for his enjoyment.  He is on the cusp of full retirement and will spend more time at home.  He and his wife have a large house and don’t need additional living space for a growing family.  His home office is upstairs, and most of the basement is finished.  The space will be an easy buildout.  He would enjoy relaxing in his cigar bar but could live without it.

Stan’s situation is an easier decision than most.

    1. He has a particular need
    2. It is a relatively small area
    3. The basement is already mostly finished
    4. The construction cost is not an issue
    5. The value of his home and neighborhood can easily absorb the investment.

Deciding to finish a basement or add additional living space is more complicated for most people.  The questions the homeowner must resolve in a typical situation include:

    • Is the need for additional space mandatory or discretionary?
    • If it’s mandatory, is the cost-benefit analysis favorable? i.e.,
    • Is it better to sell the current home and move into something larger?
    • Will you live in the house long enough to get a return on your money?
    • And, of course, do you have the funds or the ability to finance some or all the costs?

Regardless of the scope of your project, whether it is mandatory or purely discretionary, you must begin with a plan.  Create a floor plan and a materials list, and itemize labor costs.  Consider furniture, fixtures, and equipment as appropriate.  You may be required to obtain a permit, so consider having professional drawings developed, including input from structural engineers or architects if necessary.  Factor the cost of those drawings into your budget.  Calculating project cost is the starting point for all your decisions as you progress your project toward completion.

Once you establish a realistic project cost, you can determine if it is affordable and a good investment.  Your most important consideration is the relative value of the homes in your neighborhood and the length of time you plan to live there.   If the cost of your project does not significantly increase the basis in your home, and you have enough time to recover your cost, investing is probably a safe bet.

Creating a new living space in an unfinished basement can be a good investment and increase the enjoyment value of your home. However, it requires thoughtful analysis.

 

Thank you for visiting our blog.

 

Jim Weber, Managing Partner – ITB Partners

Jim Weber – Managing Partner,  ITB Partners

I hope you enjoyed our point of view and would like to receive regular posts directly to your email inbox.  Toward this end, put your contact information on my mailing list.

Your feedback helps me continue to publish articles that you want to read.  Your input is very important to me, so please leave a comment.

Kitchen Connections Completes Another Major Kitchen Remodel

This project was a major kitchen upgrade for a substantial home built in the early 1990s. It included new cabinets, countertops, lighting, appliances, tile backsplashes, and refinished hardwood floors.  Cabinets and Crown Colding were raised to the ceiling.
Breezeway Cabinets and Countertops Before
Breezeway Cabinets and Countertops Before
Breezeway Cabinets and Countertops After
Breezeway Cabinets and Countertops, After  –  Cabinets and Crown Molding are raised to the ceiling.  Tile Backsplash added.
Oven Bank Before
Oven Bank Before

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oven Bank After with new tile backsplash
Oven Bank and Cabinets After.  Cabinets and Crown Molding are raised to the ceiling.  Tile Backsplash added.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Refrigerator Cabinet Before
Refrigerator Cabinet After
Refrigerator Cabinet After – 48in Builtin Subzero

 

 

 

 

View of Kitchen Breakfast Bar Area Before

 

 

Looking over the Breakfast Bar to the Sink area and backyard.
New Work Island and refinished hardwood floors;  View from Kitchen to Breakfast Room
JIll Weber, Owner and President of Kitchen Connections, LLC

For more information about Kitchen Connections, LLC and what we can do for you, visit http://kitchenconnections.biz

770-650-0632

Thank you for visiting our blog.

 

Jim Weber, Managing Partner – ITB Partners

Jim Weber – Managing Partner,  ITB Partners

I hope you enjoyed our point of view and would like to receive regular posts directly to your email inbox.  Toward this end, put your contact information on my mailing list.

Your feedback helps me continue to publish articles that you want to read.  Your input is very important to me, so please leave a comment.