Author: Jill Weber

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Installing Drywall – Your Basement Finishing Project

Hanging Drywall

Good work! You have framed the area you are finishing. The walls and ceiling have been packed with soundproofing, fire retardant, insulation, or some combination thereof. Electrical outlets, overhead lighting, surround sound speakers, etc., have been installed. Now, you are ready to hang the drywall. Hanging and finishing drywall is the topic of this post. As with earlier posts, I refer you to videos on YouTube to help you understand the basics of hanging and finishing drywall. This post will present thoughts and considerations you may not find in those videos. Probably the most important point to consider is that the fewer joints to mud and tape the better.

Key Discussion Points

    • Plan out your cuts (fewest joints to tape)
    • Which size sheets can you accommodate?
    • Finishing corners
    • Taping
    • Hanging sheets, vertical vs horizontal
    • Fixing damaged sheets (torn paper)
    • Benefits of Expansion Foam

Your first task is to determine the optimal drywall sheet size to purchase. Our basement is a walk-out with three access points and relatively high ceilings. If you have a captured basement with lower ceilings or tight stairwells you may be restricted on the sheet size you can use. Otherwise, you may have to cut your sheets before moving them into the basement. So, ceiling height and accessibility must be evaluated before a buying decision is made. Try to purchase the largest sheet size possible to minimize cuts, The determining factor will be the type of basement you are finishing.

When my husband was ready to install drywall, he was confident he could hang and finish the walls. He was uncomfortable with the ceilings, so he hired professionals to tackle that task. In effect, he did that job backward, walls first then ceiling. The recommended installation process is ceilings first. The outcome was fine. No problems were encountered following this sequence. As most of the construction area has nine-foot ceilings we used nine-foot sheets hung vertically. The remainder of the area had eight-foot ceilings so we could place 8-foot sheets horizontally.

Corners can be tricky. External corner joints can be managed using corner beads, but they can be challenging, depending on the connection. Internal corners may have gaps that need to be corrected. If Internal corner gaps are large, expansion foam can be the solution. The foam will fill the gap and provide a base to add the joint compound. My husband had to deal with both situations. For an amateur, he did well. However, he plans additional work on one external corner.

Exposing electrical outlets is your next task. From my experience, one achieves the best result by using a drywall router tool. This tool rides along the exterior of the outlet box as it cuts away the drywall. If you don’t have a drywall router tool, you can measure and mark the outlet box location on the drywall. You can cut before or after the drywall is hung. Of course, this method requires meticulous measurements to ensure the cut matches the outlet’s location. My husband found this method more challenging. It required additional time and effort to correct errors in the cut.

Many YouTube videos describe how to mud, tape, and finish your drywall. Again, I refer to those videos for a better understanding of this task. I want to emphasize our learning to ensure a smooth, attractive joint. The first consideration is the joint compound to use. My husband used a premix joint compound for our basement finishing project. If you ask him today, however, he will say he wished he had purchased a dry product to mix himself. His thinking is that the premix resulted in too much sanding and was more difficult to achieve a smooth finish. The other point he makes is to wet the tape before its application to the joint. Many videos he watched did not emphasize this point, possibly because they used a wetter mix. He quickly learned that wetting the drywall tape was mandatory when using the premix joint compound. Not doing so resulted in bubbles and separation of the tape from the drywall.

Summary and Conclusion

Begin your drywall installation with a plan. Know the square footage you intend to cover and your options for different sheet sizes. Determine if you have any constraints moving drywall sheets into your work area. That information may determine the size of the drywall sheet you must buy. Remember, you want to minimize the number of joints to finish. The joint compound you choose is an important consideration. Finishing internal and external corners can be improved using corner beads and expansion foam. Making the cutouts for electrical outlets is best done with a drywall router. That tool will give you a clean and accurate cut, and minimize any further work on outlets.

Jill Weber, Owner and President of Kitchen Connections, LLC

For more information about Kitchen Connections, LLC and what we can do for you, visit http://kitchenconnections.biz

770-650-0632

 

Thank you for visiting our blog.

 

Jim Weber – Managing Partner,  ITB Partners;

President, New Century Dynamics Executive Search

I hope you enjoyed our perspective and would like to receive regular posts directly in your email inbox. To this end, please put your contact information on my mailing list.

Your feedback helps me continue to publish articles that you want to read.  Your input is important to me, so please leave a comment.

Installing Drywall – Your Basement Finishing Project

Good work!  You have framed the area you are finishing. The walls and ceiling have been packed with soundproofing, fire retardant, insulation, or some combination thereof. Electrical outlets, overhead lighting, surround sound speakers, etc., have been installed. Now, you are ready to hang the drywall. Hanging and finishing drywall is the topic of this post.

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Framing Your Basement Finishing Project

View from Basement Great Room toward Stairway and Kitchenette
Kitchen Connections, LLC
JDW@kitchenConnections.biz
(678) 410-0483

You have finished planning your project, and financing is in place.  You have completed some of the preliminary work, and you are now ready to begin the actual work of framing your new living space.  Regarding your stud walls, I refer you to YouTube, which has many demonstration videos for your review.  There is no need to cover that material in this post.  Instead, I will focus on essential but lesser-discussed issues for your consideration.  Remember to ensure your new walls are plumb, square, and level.

Remember, the walls you are building will be the support system for drywall, maybe shelving systems, televisions, etc.  That means your walls must be solid enough to accommodate the loads they will carry.  To illustrate this point, the closet we built for the bedroom space addresses this issue.  We added horizontal cross members at the appropriate height to ensure the strength and stability of the closet clothes hanger-shelving system.   We did the same for the wall planned to accommodate the big-screen HD Television.

Installing Drywall

The first significant framing activity we tackled was to lower the ceiling for about 30% of the space.  We lowered the ceiling because the HVAC ducts and major drain lines ran through this area.  To cover these utilities, we dropped the ceiling by 12 inches.  As the overall height from the basement floor to the first-floor joists is over nine feet, dropping the ceiling 12 inches in a small area was not an aesthetic issue.  The area where we lowered the ceiling is at the landing for the stairway, the transition space to the Great room, and the kitchenette.  Even so, we maintained a nine-foot transition height at the very foot of the stairway.  It created an exciting architectural feature.

We installed drywall ceilings throughout the Terrance Level.  To accommodate a drywall ceiling in the space above, we attached 2X4 ladders to the first-floor joists overhead.  This task was time-consuming and physically challenging, but it was worth it.  Before putting up drywall, we photographed all walls and ceiling areas for future reference if issues arise or we want further modifications.  This documentation is a valuable activity.

Framing Considerations

    • Ceilings and soffits,
    • Square, plumb, level
    • Think about hanging the drywall, Shelving, Televisions
    • Take pictures to document hidden utilities for future reference
    • When two doorways enter a room
    • Soundproofing, insulation, etc.
    • Anchoring your walls
    • Is the floor level

Even with a good plan guiding your work, you will encounter problems.  One issue we found was the doorways into the bathroom.  One doorway enters the bathroom from the bedroom, the other from the main living area.  The two doorways are too close.  They are so close that the trim on the bedroom entry had to be modified where the two doorways meet.  It isn’t an awful situation, as most people would not notice the issue.  My Husband believes it is not aesthetically pleasing.  We should have moved the doorway from the main area six Inches to the left.  I expect he will correct the issue by moving that door.  We have ample space to make that correction.

You must ensure that the basement floor is level.  If areas need to be leveled, you must do so when appropriate.  Even if the floor is reasonably level, you should still take floor-to-ceiling measurements to ensure that each wall segment is a snug fit.  Leveling the basement foundation floor will be a significant consideration when installing the finished floor system.

When your stud walls are up, square, plumb, and level, you must anchor them to the basement foundation floor.  My Husband rented a nail gun from Home Depot to complete this task.  This gun uses a .22-caliber blank cartridge to drive a concrete nail through the base of the wall into the concrete floor.  This is an effective way to anchor your walls.  Home Depot sells the nails and cartridges.   YouTube has videos available to help people understand the proper use of nail guns, including safety features.  Remember to use ear protection as the discharge is rather loud.

My final point for your consideration is soundproofing insulation and fire retardant.  Depending on your geographical location, basement insulation may be an essential consideration.  Many recent new builds include insulation and vapor barriers on basement walls.  If your basement walls don’t have insulation or a vapor barrier, you should consider that seriously.  You should consider insulation, fire retardant, and soundproofing for your stud walls.  We packed Rockwool in our stud walls and overhead in the space between the exposed first-floor joists.  Although Rockwool is not the most effective insulation or soundproofing solution, the fire retardant benefit was determinative.

Summary and Conclusion

When you are ready to begin framing your basement’s walls and ceiling, begin by viewing YouTube videos on this subject.  The key is to make your walls square, plumb, and level.  Add strength to areas supporting wall-mounted shelving, televisions, cabinets, etc.  Anchor your stud walls to the basement floor using concrete nails.  If your basement floor needs to be level, correct the problem as appropriate.  Understand that problems will arise.  Anticipate issues to address.  Make a photographic history to document your project.

Jill Weber, Owner and President of Kitchen Connections, LLC

For more information about Kitchen Connections, LLC and what we can do for you, visit http://kitchenconnections.biz

770-650-0632

 

Thank you for visiting our blog.

 

Jim Weber, Managing Partner – ITB Partners

Jim Weber – Managing Partner,  ITB Partners

I hope you enjoyed our perspective and would like to receive regular posts directly in your email inbox. To this end, please put your contact information on my mailing list.

Your feedback helps me continue to publish articles that you want to read.  Your input is very important to me, so please leave a comment.

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Your Basement Electrical Plan

Great Room looking out toward the terrace

Our last post was about understanding the plumbing needs of your basement, especially drainage.  The plumbing plan for your project is essential.  However, a comprehensive electrical wiring plan may be more critical.  This post focuses on understanding the requirements and options for electrical components.  You should complete an electrical plan before you begin finishing your basement.    The first step to developing your electrical wiring plan is to secure the Residential Electric Code from your municipality’s building department.  Consider the additional load from appliances and electrical components that facilitate your lifestyle.  The added electrical load will likely require the addition of a sub-panel to service your basement.   Most existing homes need sub-panels for expansion.    You may benefit by consulting with an electrical contractor.

When we built our Atlanta-area home 28 years ago, we made a point to add as many electrical upgrades as possible.  We wired for telephone service with outlets in every room.  Additionally,  we wired cable service for twelve rooms, which included all bedrooms, two Family Rooms, the Master Bath, the Kitchen, the Bonus Room, and the Basement.  In retrospect, I wish we had wired the house with Ethernet cables for enhanced PC connectivity.  WiFi is OK, but we would have enjoyed the benefit of direct wired connections for computers and audio-visual components.  There are many more options today, from high-tech safety and security features to audio-visual, lighting, and smart technology.

Electrical Plan:  Things to Consider

    1. HVAC
    2. Outlets and fixtures
    3. Smart Tech
    4. Audio Visual
    5. Switches
    6. Lighting
    7. Safety & Security

The layout of your basement, captured vs walkout, will determine your heating and cooling needs.  Our basement remains relatively comfortable throughout the year, requiring minimal additional heating and cooling capacity.  For that reason, we decided on a mini-split system.  Your needs may differ based on the square footage you want to finish.  One could also install an in-floor heating system in a part of the basement.  Nevertheless, you will need to factor this electrical demand into your planning.

Refer to your municipality’s building codes for guidance on the minimum number of outlets required and the placement of smoke detectors.  The standard for placing outlets is usually no more than 12 feet apart in living areas and 6 feet apart in kitchens and bathrooms.   Your building codes also cover halls, doorways, and other areas. If you want to add wall-mounted televisions, plan for additional outlets where you want to hang the television(s).  These outlets will facilitate the concealment of electrical cords and other wires.  You may want to add additional outlets to accommodate Smart Technology solutions, including USB Enabled Outlets, Touchless Taps, or Concealed Outlets.

Much of our Smart Technology is WiFi-compatible.  It is convenient and provides a lot of flexibility.  WiFi connectivity can become overloaded, requiring booster systems or added routers.  I expect that, eventually, we will need to add another modem and router to accommodate the increased demand.

A primary objective for finishing our basement was to make a desirable retreat for our teenage Grandchildren.  That means accommodating electronic gaming systems, HD Televisions, and a great sound system.  We planned accordingly.  We installed two wall-mounted televisions with all cables and plugs hidden in the walls or behind the televisions.  We installed ceiling-mounted speakers connected to a state-of-the-art stereo receiver.  The audio-visual installation has been tested by the grandkids and given a big “thumbs up.”

We extensively used LED flush-mounted lighting throughout the finished area. We wired for ceiling fans in the Great Room and on the Patio. We added a wall-mounted, two-light fixture over the bathroom vanity. We wired the kitchenette for full functionality, including task lighting. The remainder of our lighting plan relies on table and floor-mounted lamps. Your plan might also consider under-counter/skirt board/task lighting, closet/cupboard lighting, and motion-sensitive lighting.

Switches and outlets are another essential consideration. There are many options for size, style, and functionality. We used dimmer switches to control all of the lights. Our electrical contractor added GFCI outlets in the bathroom and kitchenette. A third GFCI outlet was part of the original construction. GFCI outlets are an essential safety consideration covered by your Building Codes.

Summary and Conclusion

When developing your electrical wiring plan, begin by understanding the building codes.  You may want to engage an Electrical Contractor to help with this task.  As you start your work on your electrical plan, think about how you will use the space now and in the future.  The significant issues to address are Safety and security, HVAC, and lighting.  Aesthetic features like audio-visual, Connectivity, and Smart Technology offer many opportunities for your consideration.

JIll Weber, Owner and President of Kitchen Connections, LLC

For more information about Kitchen Connections, LLC and what we can do for you, visit http://kitchenconnections.biz

770-650-0632

 

Thank you for visiting our blog.

 

Jim Weber, Managing Partner – ITB Partners

Jim Weber – Managing Partner,  ITB Partners

I hope you enjoyed our perspective and would like to receive regular posts directly in your email inbox. To this end, please put your contact information on my mailing list.

Your feedback helps me continue to publish articles that you want to read.  Your input is very important to me, so please leave a comment.

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Plumbing Your Basement Project

This article is the third installment by Kitchen Connections, evaluating the considerations for finishing your basement.

Basement Bathroom

It is reasonable to assume that adding a bathroom is a high priority if you plan to finish your basement. After all, when nature calls, you do not want to go upstairs to find a bathroom. Additionally, you can add a bar, a kitchen, a laundry room, or all three. Addressing the plumbing issues required by your basement finishing plan may be your first significant activity. If you built your house in the last twenty years, your builder may have roughed the drainage pipe for future development. Paper or rags may have been stuffed into this pipe opening to minimize gas and unpleasant odors emanating from the roughed-in drain pipe. Additional drainage needs will likely connect to that pipe. Addressing drainage and water supply is an important place to begin your work.

Our basement project created a 750-square-foot, one-bedroom, walk-out apartment. It includes a full bathroom, a laundry room, a great room, and a kitchenette. This space is not just for guests but also for our children and grandchildren or even as a rental. The plumbing for both the kitchenette and the laundry room was simple, allowing us to focus on the exciting aspects of personalizing our new space.

If you plan to add a shower or a bath, you may still need to cut the concrete of your basement foundation. We had to break concrete to connect the future shower drainpipe to the roughed-in connection to the main drain. With that task completed, we connected the vanity sink to the shower drain. Typically, drainpipes for a basement vanity, shower or bathtub, and toilet are not installed during the construction of a new house. The typical rough-in for a basement bathroom is limited to the drainpipe for the toilet. There is only a need to incur this cost on a new home if finishing the basement is a certainty. Drainage for the vanity and shower must be added. Expect to cut and bust some concrete to build your basement bathroom.

After completing our basement bathroom, we found water drained slowly and backed up in the shower. We had to clear a blockage. Our plumber cleared the paper from the drain, which resolved the issue. We have yet to experience further drainage issues.

It is essential to ensure pre-plumbed drainage pipes are connected to the main drain without obstructions. I remember a YouTube video I recently viewed. In this video, a New Jersey couple was filmed with their contractor while planning to finish their basement. The house was new, and the builder had planned for a basement bathroom. At least it looked like he had done so, as a PVC pipe rose from the foundation. Upon further inspection, the contractor discovered that the pipe was only stuck in the foundation and not connected to the main drain. I had to laugh. It seems appropriate for New Jersey. Did the building inspector miss this violation, or was it something else? The homeowners were not happy. It required them to cut into the foundation to build a trench and lay pipes to connect to the main drain. I wonder if the homeowners factored this cost into their budget. Finding and connecting to the main drain is the priority. One must budget for this cost.

Another consideration is to use copper pipes, the Pex System, or maybe PVC for the water lines. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Copper is reliable but expensive. Pex and PVC are less costly and easy to install but may only be suitable for some locations. There is a lot of information on the internet to help you decide which of these options is the best for your project. Our situation was ideal for installing a Pex System. You will want to research this issue to determine the best solution.

CONCLUSION:
The plumbing required for finishing your basement is a significant consideration. It is a large component of the cost for most basement remodel projects. If you plan to do some or all the work yourself, you can save a lot of money. However, it will require a significant investment in your time. If you are required to have a building permit, the situation will become more complicated. There are several options to consider regarding connecting to the water supply. Each has benefits and disadvantages, so choose the most suitable option.

JIll Weber, Owner and President of Kitchen Connections, LLC

For more information about Kitchen Connections, LLC and what we can do for you, visit http://kitchenconnections.biz

770-650-0632

Thank you for visiting our blog.

 

Jim Weber, Managing Partner – ITB Partners

Jim Weber – Managing Partner,  ITB Partners

I hope you enjoyed our perspective and would like to receive regular posts directly in your email inbox. To this end, please put your contact information on my mailing list.

Your feedback helps me continue to publish articles that you want to read.  Your input is very important to me, so please leave a comment.

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Consider a Finished Basement

New Shower and Tub

Recently, I have noticed increased homeowner interest in finishing basements.  For example, YouTube offers many channels devoted to this subject.  That would be a relevant indicator of subject matter interest.  Those videos now refer to a finished basement as ‘The Lower Level.’  It must be ‘a thing.’  Although most of my business involves remodeling Kitchens and Baths, I have experience in other areas, including finishing and remodeling basements.  I just completed a basement remodel, and I am in the final stages of finishing the walk-out basement in our home.

The rationale for finishing a basement varies from adding bedrooms for a growing family to creating lavish Bars and Home Theaters in larger homes.  The former adds low-cost living space, while the latter provides highly specialized space for entertaining.  Some make apartments to generate rental income and living space for aging parents or adult children.   Creating a home office in your basement becomes more important as more people work remotely or have home-based businesses.  Additionally, as apartment rents increase in major urban areas, a basement apartment may be an investment opportunity worth considering.

Investing in one’s home is generally a good idea.  It has created a lucrative income for me.  However, some expenditures have a better payback than others.  Remodeling a kitchen or a master bathroom is your best investment.  Conversely, a finished basement is not among the best home improvement options.  That line of reasoning may be changing as new lifestyle trends emerge.

Viable Reasons to Finish a Basement.

    • Bedrooms for a growing family
    • Private space for aging parents
    • An apartment for an adult child
    • Space for entertaining, i.e., a home theater or bar
    • Home office or studio
    • Gym
    • Playroom for young children
    • Space to accommodate a hobby, like a wine cellar, cigar bar, or workshop.
    • Self-contained space for visiting family and friends
    • A man cave, a gaming area, etc.

Many homes in our neighborhood have created a Lower Level.  On one side, our neighbor finished their basement to provide an apartment for their parents.  Our neighbor across the street finished their basement by adding a wine cellar, a wet bar, a gaming area, and a home theatre.  The homes in our neighborhood were designed to make it easier to finish a basement.  Most have walk-out basements, making a finished basement more useful.  Our builders provided rough-in plumbing, and the basements were framed identically to the first floor.  The basement framing supports the load of the primary and second floors.  So, much of the initial work was already done.

As I said, my husband, Jim, and I are in the final stages of creating a basement apartment in the home we built in 1996. Recently, we recognized a compelling reason to consider finishing our basement.  We are empty nesters with far more space than we need.  However, we have three daughters with families, i.e., grandchildren, who visit from time to time.  A furnished apartment would provide utility for visiting friends and relatives.  There are other lesser reasons we considered, of course, like adding a place where Jim and his friends can enjoy a cigar while watching college football when it’s too cold to entertain on the deck.  Considering all the potential benefits, we were convinced to take the plunge.

We decided to improve 750 square feet, about half the basement’s total square footage.  That is enough room for a comfortable apartment.  Our floor plan includes a large living/family room, a bedroom, bathroom, kitchenette, and a fully functional laundry room.  This apartment has a private entry into the family room from the concrete patio under the deck.   The area to remain unfinished includes a utility room, storage area, and a large area that is Jim’s workshop.  The shop area also has a private entrance.  That area has excellent potential for future consideration.

Creating our Lower Level has been a learning experience and fun.  So much so that it is worth sharing; suppose you have thought about finishing your basement; this series of articles will help you determine if it is a viable option for you, how to plan the project, and what to expect regarding cost.  I invite you to stay tuned for posts exploring this topic over the next few months.

For more information about Kitchen Connections, LLC and what we can do for you, visit http://kitchenconnections.biz
Jill Weber, Owner and President of Kitchen Connections, LLC

770-650-0632

Thank you for visiting our blog.

 

Jim Weber, Managing Partner – ITB Partners

Jim Weber – Managing Partner,  ITB Partners

I hope you enjoyed our point of view and would like to receive regular posts directly to your email inbox.  Toward this end, put your contact information on my mailing list.

Your feedback helps me continue to publish articles that you want to read.  Your input is very important to me, so please leave a comment.